New Delhi:
When your neighbor's house is on fire, you have two
choices: you can either run away from it or towards it.
You are entitled to run away form it, but if you do that
too often, you will eventually find yourself without any
neighbors. And you will be lonely, until your house is
consumed as well.
Flights, thankfully, uneventful. Made friends on the
planes, and they all promised to write checks. Folks
are very glad we are here.
Someone said that it is unfortunate we do not have time
to get into Delhi, as it has changed. All public
transport - buses, rickshaws, taxis - now must run on
natural gas, and has cut air pollution (that used to be
horrid!) in half. There are many "flyways" (overpasses)
rather than four way stops, also contributing to
pollution declines. And there is a new subway!
The air terminal looks the same though. Even the smells
(which I like). After antiseptic Seoul, I know I am in
India. Garish colors, decorations, wonderful Indian uses
of English. The warning sign about what cannot be
brought onto a plane reads, in part:
NO
Darts
Bows and arrows
Mace
Clubs
Pickles and chilly powders
A terrorist attack utilizing pickles and chilly powders
(that's the way it was spelled) would be something right
out of a Grade B Indian ("Bollywood") movie. The slogan
for the new Indian Sahara Airlines is "Emotionally yours."
Then there was another sigh about "Public Grievances
Redressal Machinery" (report a problem and someone gets
spanked?) Aliyah and I are both pleased by the Indian
vegetarian food.
The news here, generally speaking, is not good. Yesterday,
a misunderstanding of sorts of a report issued by a
small consulting group out of Oregon - M/S Terra
Research - that another tsunami was about to hit as a
result of an earthquake off the coast of Australia -
se the government in a tizzy, and after 8 hours, they
issued a warning. Folks in the coastal areas, already
reeling, not having time to find no less than bury
their dead, ran to the hills. Hospitals emptied out,
and patients are camping (with their saline tubes, etc.)
in the open air, refusing to return to the hospital
buildings. Packets of food, water, and clothing
distributed by aid agencies were thrown to the ground.
There are literally mountains of abandoned donated
clothing. Relief workers had no idea what hit them
(no one told them about the warnings, all of which
turned out to be based on a false alarm. The press
accounts, which are extremely unclear, is that Terra
Research had some kind of new technology that they
refused to make public.
In another press account, apparently one group of people
was able to predict the earthquake and resulting tsunami,
and act upon it. A small aboriginal tribe - the Jarawa -
on South Andaman island (there are only known to be 271
of them) apparently detected the onslaught several days
in advance and moved deeply inland into the jungle.
Virtually the entire island was hit, but the tribe
survived. This was discovered when a 12-year old boy
from the tribe turned up looking suitably aboriginal at
a local health center, because he had an earache.
Not good news in my mother's district (Nagai) -
apparently it and the neighboring coastal villages of
Cuddalore were the hardest hit of all. The pictures are
astounding. The government is apparently spreading
bleach powder on the beaches (a disinfectant?) - though
these efforts were delayed, as airlines refused to
allow the bags of powder on the planes as they are
considered 'hazardous material' and the bags were not
properly labeled.
But - there are always signs and signals of how tragedy
can sometimes bring out the best in the human condition.
This is what should have been on CNN but wasn't. The
five coastal villages of Cuddalore were entirely wiped
out. In the center is Cuddalore town. The fish market
was entirely destroyed, and no one really has any idea
of the death toll. Most of the fisher folk are Hindu and
Christian (many of them, of low-caste origin, having been
converted in the 19th Century as an attempt to escape
discrimination and stigma). The town merchants were much
less affected by the wave. Most of them, however, are
Muslim, many of whom send their sons to work and trade
in the Gulf countries. Within minutes (10 a.m. on a
Sunday morning), the local imam and the head of the
local Muslim religious association called out the
entire Muslim religious community. They started rushing
folks to hospitals in vans, cars, mopeds, and bicycles.
By noon, the Mosque had organized milk for a few hundred
babies, and food for over 3,000 survivors. By evening,
the 3,000 Muslim men of the town were tending to over
10,000 Hindus and 3,000 Christians in makeshift camps.
For the last 3 days, the Mosque has employed 24 cooks
to feed the survivors. The local government has come up
with milk and rice, but the Muslim religious association
buys vegetables and everything else on it sown, even
preparing strictly vegetarian meals for the orthodox
Hindus (most folks in this area, however, are fish
eaters.)
The Muslim association has even taken upon themselves
what would normally be considered unthinkable among
many Muslims. They are carrying the bodies themselves
to their last rest. To the largest extent possible,
they are ensuring that the Hindus are cremated, and the
Christians buried, with crosses on every grave. The
head of the Muslim association has said he has not
slept in days, but vows to continue caring for and
feeding the Christian and Hindu members of their
community for as along as it takes. And where
necessary, and where they are no surviving relatives,
they have vowed to take in infants and children of the
community, raising them in the religion in which they
were born. (And these are all owners of businesses that,
themselves, will never recover.)
THIS is in the India I know and have come to love over
the past 30 years, and always have. In the meantime,
a small article in today's paper notes the government's
sendoff of the first of 12,900 pilgrims on the haj to
Mecca. Two government officials - on Sikh, the other
Hindu, went to the airport to wish them godspeed. The
Indian government has a fund set up to assist all of
its Muslim residents to make the haj at least once in
their lifetimes.
Meanwhile, rickshaw pullers in Coimbatore, a city in
the very hilly areas of Tamil Nadu more than 200 miles
from the coast, collected 3,500 rupees (roughly $85)
for relief efforts. When they took the money to the
bank, the bank refused to cut a check for the relief
fund, because they couldn't be bothered to count 1, 2,
and 5 rupee notes (a rupee is around 2 1/2 cents.) The
rickshaw pullers, among the poorest people in town,
blockaded the bank with their rickshaws and refused to
leave, until bank officials cut checks using their own
money. (They still refuse to count the contributions.)
Rickshaw pullers who are reading this are hereby
notified that Aliyah and I are accepting 1, 2 and 5
rupee notes (or their U.S. equivalents.) We know that
we can deliver the funds directly, and have no Red Cross
officials to feed or offices to rent (and we are paying
for our trip, etc., out of our own pickets). So we can
stretch a rupee or two a long way!
Finally for those of you who feel called to do even more,
you are invited to visit tsunamihelp.blogspot.com a
quickly formed on-line community of relief workers. I
haven't managed to long on yet (all our blogs have been
catch-as-catch can), but we have heard very good reports
about it.
We ask for your prayers, good thoughts, and continuing
contributions.
David
P.S. We are a bit behind in posting, and visited a
devastated fishing village yesterday. Aliyah will be
posting later today. In the meantime, my wife tells us
about the wonderful outpouring of support, and we thank
you greatly. A couple of notes based on inquiries we
have received: it is not a good time to volunteer (at
least in India) - currently the government has cut
access by relief organizations such as the Red Cross
(since my mother's organization is local, that isn't a
problem.) But more relief workers right now would add
to coordination difficulties. About a month or two from
now, we will need lots of folks to help dig wells, build
hoses, and engage in disease prevention. Adopting
tsunami orphans from India is not possible - Indian
adoptions are normally very difficult for foreigners
(long story how we did it), and the tsunami killed far
more children than adults. My mother's organization does
take in children who are orphaned or whose family
situations are under stress. Funds are urgently needed,
especially now - it costs about $130 a year to feed,
clothe, house, and educate a child, and we can set up
formal support arrangements. Most of our current
sponsors are from Italy and we would like to expand.
Finally, funds. In a month there will be even greater
need that there is today. I don't think it is yet sunk
in how huge the rehabilitation effort will have to be.
Please keep us in your thoughts and prayers, and on your
contribution list.
David
Note from Ellen: If you call to make a donation,
please note we are in Olympia, WA (pacific time).
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